Bumble Bee crochet pattern plus stitches explanation.
By: Maryanggela
DeMeester
Please do not hesitate to reach me out anytime if you
have any questions. I would be happy to help you!
Abbreviations - US Terminology
MC Magic circle.
ST(s) Stitch (es).
SC Single Crochet.
DC Doble Crochet
HDC Half Double Crochet
INC Increase (2 sc in 1 st).
DEC Decrease (sc 2 sts together).
SL ST Slip Stitch.
Notes
Feel free to add more details embroidering to the face
Starting with Yellow Yarn
Row 1: MC 6 (6)
Row 2: INC x 6 (12)
Row 3: [SC - INC] x 6 (18)
Row 4: [2 SC - INC] x 6 (24)
Row 5: [3 SC - INC] x 6 (30)
Row 6: [4 SC - INC] x 6 (36)
Row 7: SC around (36)
Place the Safety Eye between row 4 and 5 with 9 sts
between eyes.
Black Yarn
Row 8 -9: SC around (36)
Row 10 - 11: SC around (36)
Black Yarn
Row 12 -13: SC around (36)
Yellow Yarn
Row 14 - 15: SC around (36)
Row 18: [4 SC - DEC] x 6 (30)
Row 19: [3 SC - DEC] x 6 (24)
Row 20: [2 SC - DEC] x 6 (18)
Row 21: [SC - DEC] x 6 (12)
Stuffing the body.
Row 22: DEC x 6
Close and weave the ends.
Wing x 2 with white yarn
Row 1: MC 6 (6)
Row 2: INC x 6 (12)
Row 3: HDC, INC HDC x 6 (18)
Row 4: 2DC, INC DC x 6 (24) Slip Stitch and leave a
long tail for attaching.
Attach the wings on top of the bee and you have done!!
This is just a small guide of stitches you are going
to need but many yarn shops offer classes, or you can look up video tutorials
online.
·
SLIPKNOT
Use this to begin a chain. Make a loop on your yarn a
few inches from the end. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the yarn
end connected to the skein. Pull the strand through the loop, then tighten the
knot.
·
YARN OVER (Y0)
Wrap the yarn around your hook from back to front.
·
CHAIN (CH)
Make a slipknot first (unless you are in the middle of
a piece and already have a loop on your hook). YO and pull yarn through the
loop on hook. Repeat as many times as required. The loop on the hook doesn't
count as chain, so omit it if you are checking the stitch count.
·
WORKING INTO A CHAIN
Usually, you must skip the ch nearest to the hook and
work your first st in the second ch from hook (the pattern will specify this).
When you look at a row of chains, the front side will
look like a series of tiny Vs, and the back will have a single line of loops.
For the neatest look, insert your hook into the back loop rather than the front
V.
·
WORKING INTO STITCHES
Every stitch has two strands in a small V shape on
top. Insert your hook under both sides of the V unless otherwise specified.
·
WORKING IN FRONT/BACK LOOP ONLY (FLO/BLO)
When you look at the V on top of the stitch, the
strand closest to you is called the front loop and the strand farthest from you
is called the back loop. If you need to work in FLO, insert your hook under the
closest loop only. If you need to work BLO, insert your hook under the farthest
loop only.
·
SINGLE CROCHET (SC)
This is the stitch you will use most for amigurumi.
Insert your hook into the st or ch, YO, and draw up a loop (pull yarn through
st or ch). You will have two loops on your hook. YO and pull yarn through both
loops on hook.
·
INCREASE (INC)
In these patterns, inc always means single crochet
increase: work two sc in the same st or ch.
·
DECREASE (DEC)
Insert your hook in st, YO, and draw up a loop. Insert
your hook in next st, YO, and draw up a loop again (you will have three loops
on your hook). YO and pull through all loops on hook.
·
INVISIBLE DECREASE (INVDEC)
While this stitch can be replaced by regular DEC, it
produces a smoother look, so it's really worth learning for amigurumi. Insert
your hook in the front loop only of the st (no YO here!). Swing the hook
slightly downward so you can insert it into the front loop of the next st. YO
and draw up a loop through both front loops. YO and pull through the two loops
on hook.
·
SLIP STITCH (SL ST)
Insert your hook into the st or ch, YO, and pull yarn
through both the st or ch and the loop on hook. Be careful to keep the stitch
loose: the V on top should be the same size as the top of other stitches. If
your sl st is too tight, you won't be able to insert your hook in the next
round, or your work might pucker.
·
HALF-DOUBLE CROCHET (HDC)
YO, insert your hook into the st or ch, YO, and draw
up a loop (you will have three loops on hook). YO and pull through all three
loops on hook.
·
FASTEN OFF
To finish your piece, cut the yarn 4-5" from your
hook (or more, if you will need the yarn end for sewing), and pull the end
through the last loop on hook.
·
WEAVE IN YARN ENDS
In amigurumi, many yarn ends are luckily on the inside
of the piece, so we don't have to deal with them. But there is a dangling end
left after closing up a body part, as well as the leftover yarn after sewing
pieces together. To secure these, stitch through the body several times to
catch it in the stuffing Then pull the yarn tight and cut it right in front of
the crochet fabric-the tension will pull it back inside the body. For flat
pieces, weave in the end by sewing through several stitches, then snip off the
rest as close to the fabric as possible.
·
WORKING IN ROUNDS
Amigurumi are mostly crocheted in rounds, starting
with a small circle of stitches and progressing in a continuous spiral without
turning or joining. To keep track of the beginnings/ends of your rounds, attach
a stitch marker in the first st of the round, moving it to the next round when
you start it.
·
MAGIC RING
The magic ring is a nice technique to start working in
the round, because it will create a small circle of stitches with no gap in the
center. Make a circle of the yarn. Insert your hook through this ring, YO, and
draw up a loop, then ch 1. Work the
first round of stitches over both the ring and the free yarn end, then pull on
the free end to close the ring.
·
RIGHT AND WRONG SIDES
If you are working in rounds, there will be a right
and a wrong side: the right side is the side facing you while you work; this
should be the outside of your piece. On the right side, individual stitches
resemble small Vs. (Fig. T) On the wrong side, they are like an upside down V
with a horizontal bar on top. (Fig. U) It is quite usual for your work to start
curling up in the wrong direction. Stop after the first two or three rounds to
check, and if necessary, turn the piece right-side out. WORKING IN ROWS Working
in rows means turning your piece at the end of every row and work in the
opposite direction in the next row. To allow for this, you will have to crochet
a "turning chain" at the end of the row. (Turning chains don't count
as regular stitches, so omit them if you are checking your stitch count.)
·
CHANGE COLORS
When you are crocheting the last st with the old
color, stop when you have the last two loops on hook. YO with the new color and
pull it through the loops on hook. Continue working with the new color. If you
need to switch back and forth between two colors, you can carry the unused
color on the inside of the piece and change as necessary. However, this
technique doesn't work very well if you need to make more than three stitches
with the same color. In such cases, you will get the nicest look if you cut the
old color and tie the two ends together to secure them.
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